The seafront 7th arrondissement centers on austere Abbaye Saint-Victor, with views over the Old Port. On an island in the bay, the 16th-century Château d’If was the setting for Alexandre Dumas’ novel “The Count of Monte Cristo.” Bohemian Saint-Victor has a food market and delis, while elegant bistros dot the hilly Bompard district, and seafood restaurants overlook beaches in the villages of Roucas-Blanc and Endoume.