Leafy, upscale and suburban, Municipio XII includes Gianicolense, or the Janiculum Hill, and is also referred to as Monteverde. Many of its parks and piazzas have sweeping views of Rome, and vast Villa Doria Pamphilj offers formal gardens, jogging trails and birdwatching. Low-key restaurants and bars have a neighborhood feel, and hidden stairways wind past vine-covered ruins down to the streets of Trastevere below.