The once-gritty 12th arrondissement is now a cluster of tranquil residential neighborhoods. The peaceful Coulée verte René-Dumont offers an oasis with gardens along a former elevated railway. Families flock to Bercy, an old warehouse district with a park and a concert arena, plus retail chains and restaurants. The Cinémathèque Française, designed by Frank Gehry, shows classic movies and has a museum and archive.